But thanks to pressure from Swizz Beatz, the clock is ticking. Where does fashion draw the line between homage and theft? Can brands be both the arbiters of stereotypes and critics of them? And can a collection including $1,100 shopping bags really engage in a conversation about corporate lust? At the end of the day, as with all conversations, fashion simply cannot begin one without expecting that other voices will want to be heard, too.Д«alenciaga has yet to respond regarding the Ruff Ryders shirt, so the jury is still out whether or not the record label gave permission to use its logo, or was approached at all. In playing with these ideas of corporate symbols, identity, and ownership, designers like Michele and Gvasalia are also simultaneously engaging in an ongoing conversation about cultural appropriation, whether they want to or not. Some might call this вЂњ trolling,вЂќ while others have a different, more culturally concerned categorization for it: appropriation. The Balenciaga вЂBвЂ™ was also mirrored like the McDonaldвЂ™s вЂM,вЂ™ in case you missed the connection. And at the Spring 2018 Balenciaga show this week, the front row was provided with McDonaldвЂ™s soda cups bearing the phrase, вЂњThe power of dreams,вЂќ which is HondaвЂ™s slogan. Gvasalia has also recently been inspired, like Virgil Abloh, to adapt IkeaвЂ™s signature blue shopping bag. The Vetements Fall 2017 runway show, for example, featured a cast of archetypal characters, including вЂњsecretary,вЂќ вЂњbro,вЂќ and вЂњpunk.вЂќ And that same season, not only did Gvasalia show an army of corporate suits for Balenciaga menвЂ™s, but also adapted the Bernie Sanders campaign logo to say the brandвЂ™s name instead. Like Michele, who tapped (and by tapped we mean paid) knockoff artist Trevor Andrew, a.k.a the GucciGhost, to graffiti his clothes and accessories, GvasaliaвЂ™s collections, both for the Kering-owned Balenciaga and his own Vestments label, explore the idea of knockoffs, stereotypes, and corporate logos. A Gucci spokesman later told The New York Times that Michele had reached out to Day with the idea of collaborating with him, and called it a вЂњhomageвЂќ Instagram, but like Beatz, many immediately took to social media to demand both accreditation and compensation, including the Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon, who originally wore the look. Dapper Dan, which walked the runway during Alessandro MicheleвЂ™s Cruise 2018 show in Florence, Italy.

With this, Beatz was referring to the recent controversy surrounding GucciвЂ™s almost exact replication of a look by the Harlem boutique owner, Daniel Day, a.k.a. вЂњBalenciaga we must have a talk about this Ruff Ryder shirt ASAP,вЂќ Beatz, born Kasseem Dean, wrote in the Instagram caption of his first post. But as the producer, rapper, and art collector, Swizz Beatz pointed out on Instagram following the fashion show, the brandвЂ™s repurposing of the Ruff Ryders logo-a record label founded by BeatzвЂ™s own aunt and ungle-deserves calling out, too. In addition to a star-studded front row, it was easy to be distracted by the collectionвЂ™s triple-layer pants, branded bicycles, and expensive bags, as well as the real-life dads who walked the runway hand-in-hand with their children.

On Wednesday, under the trees of the Bois de Boulogne park in Paris, France, designer Demna Gvasalia showed his Spring 2018 Balenciaga menвЂ™s show to an audience including Twin Peaks star Kyle MacLachlan.

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